June 10, 2025
Does Puglia Still Have It?
We took a road trip. Here's the good, bad, and the downright bizarre. Most of the people I talk with who love Puglia (more traditionally called...
ROAM
April 25, 2025
How to Rome
For more advice on visiting Rome, here’s an earlier article that has some of my absolute favorite, and still pretty unknown, places to go. Every dog needs a...
April 6, 2025
Letter to my Ex
Visiting my prior life in California is a lot like seeing an old lover. Absence makes the heart grow fonder. Actually, it’s complicated. There is so much that...
September 8, 2024
Procida
I've been on a mission to find the perfect fishing village for years. I have this idea in my head—Local Hero in a warmer climate,...
August 19, 2024
Saunter like Sophia (Loren, that is)
I find it hard to imagine what the Italian coast must have been like in the 1960s. Before the hordes of tourists, bumper to bumper...
August 10, 2024
Here’s How Paris Surprised Me During the Olympics
I had no idea what Paris would be like during the Olympics and arrived with a mix of anticipation and dread. After a week of...
February 25, 2024
Roman Treasures
Rome is slightly over an hour away from us by fast train, but it always feels like an exotic vacation, even on the briefest trips....
July 4, 2023
Discovering Lake Maggiore
Italy is sinking under the weight of tourists right now, and it's not even high-season. I am not too affected by crowds living in such...
April 30, 2023
Just go: Brescia
An unexpected visit to Brescia revealed a delightful town often overshadowed by its neighbors—Venice, Verona, Padua, and Milan—but packed with beauty, history, and great food. We...
December 11, 2022
A new favorite place: Fife, Scotland
So what were we to do? We had paid for tickets for all of us to convene in Edinburgh to drop Sebastian off at the...
December 4, 2022
“Vacationing” on a barge in France
Mistakes were made–our first was assuming that there would be a grocery store open in the town where we set sail, on a Sunday, late...
October 30, 2022
The devil at the beer garden
My mother was an artist, but her pallet for rebellion was limited. When I was growing up and she was really, really fed up—a fight...